It was a ruin when he lived there, then nearly ruined by millions of trampling tourists after his death. Now the Musée Rodin has been playfully vamped up – and it’s even got a giant chocolate tribute to France’s most famous sculptor The once shabby mansion in Paris where the sculptor Auguste Rodin worked until his death in 1917, reopens to the public on 12 November – and it is now so chic, warm, accessible and elegant that the artist would surely have been astonished. The splendid high-ceilinged rooms and strengthened floors of this, the Hotel Biron, are full of sculptures once more – not just Rodin’s work, but sculptures…